Temecula Wineries - Comparing the Italian and San Diego Wine Regions
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I've been curious about Italy because many winemakers in San Diego compare San Diego and Temecula's climate to Italy's. The search took me to Italy back in 2003. The rolling hills with their Italian cypress and olive tree landscapes were just as expected, but the actual process of wine tasting proved to be less than expected. Don't get me wrong, even the house wines at Italian restaurants are generally of good quality, but the act of driving through the grapevine-covered hills and stopping at a winery to taste a sample of their product proved difficult.
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The sixteenth century era farmhouse inn that I stayed at among the hills was also a winery. Upon arrival, my companion and I were given three bottles of their everyday wine (and later two more bottles of their estate vintage) by our English-speaking proprietor. When asked about tasting wine in the area, the proprietor said we had our own tasting with everything he had given us. This was indeed very generous; of the many niceties we received were fresh croissants one Sunday morning, a free lunch for a small inconvenience, and an English newspaper. But somehow it wasn't quite what we were looking for. We wanted the ambiance of a tasting room with other people enjoying their tastings and discussions regarding the soil, climate, and the distinctions in the vine of that region and others in the area. Upon further prompting we were told the wineries keep inconsistent hours of operation and the Inn wasn't open to the public. We also later learned about Mali; it's long siestas in the middle of the day. Perhaps it was the time of the month (March is not their usually busy tourist season, or maybe it's just the Italian way.
Although we drove throughout the Chianti region searching out "fattoria" the Italian word for wineries or farms, none of the places we drove by welcomed visitors. In the small town of Greve of Chianti, we did find a tasting room that appeared to have the entire Chianti region's wine production. Inside the large, brick-lined room were three round tables with bottles of Chianti Classico wines. We were allowed a taste of each bottle for between .40 and .80 euros. At first we were a little reluctant to try because we were the only customers in the room except for a server who spoke just a little bit of English, but we later warmed up when she brought us crackers and toast with samples of their locally produced sausage. We sampled a large range of what the Chianti Classico area has to offer. Chianti wine is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape and most often has a cherry flavor. The Chianti Classico area is drier than most of central Italy.
The hilly forms and shrubbery are reminiscent of a drive to Julian (the charming, rustic mountain town about 80 miles northeast of San Diego). When I returned from my trip to Italy, I thought I'd ask the vintners around the Julian area if they were growing any Italian grapes.
"I'm growing Nebbiolo, Muscat Cannelli, and trying to bring in Dolcetto planted two years ago," said Alexander McGeary, owner of Shadow Mountain Vineyards in Warner Springs. "High in the mountains there is more risk because of frost, lack of soil, birds, and other problems," he said. But according to McGeary, his main driving force is the quality of the wine that these grapes produce. He also says that San Diego's soil and climate are similar to Italy's.
Like McGeary, Dave Wodehouse, president of the San Diego Vintner's Association and president and winemaker of Witch Creek Wineries in Julian and Carlsbad, likes to use Nebbiolo grapes for winemaking. He gets his grapes from Temecula, San Diego, and the Guadalupe Valley in Mexico. He said it seems that there has recently been an increase in consumer demand for the Italian varieties. Other Italian grape varieties he uses include Barber and a Mouverdre.
Perhaps the biggest news yet to support the San Diego winemakers' claims to similarity in climate and soil to Italy is the 2002 planting of the first legally imported Brunello di Montalcino grape vines by the Bridges planned community in Rancho Santa Fe. According to an article on winespectator.com, these vines (named after the Montalcino area in Italy) are a clone of the Sangiovese grape, and are the first of its kind to be planted anywhere in the United States.
It remains to be seen if San Diego can produce wines equal in quality to what it has taken Italy centuries to achieve, but if the San Diego winemakers can pull it off, I'll stay home and drink the wine here at a tasting room with friends and strangers crowded around and good conversation thrown into the mix.
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